Soho, London

Soho has a deliciously murky past. Beheadings, prostitution, debauchery… Even a cholera outbreak. But it has also attracted a myriad of colourful, interesting characters over the centuries – many writers, poets, musicians and aristocracy took refuge in the warren of streets that make up the area. Renowned in the past for its role as London’s red light district (still true, although on a far smaller scale), these days Soho is a gloriously vibrant and hugely entertaining place to spend time.

Soho’s Carnaby Street

Intrigued to understand better its ongoing allure, I interrogated Sophie, 28, who has worked in Soho for several years. ‘Soho has a real magnetism’, she explains. ‘It’s right in the heart of London but definitely feels like a village unto its own. Much more so than the surrounding areas.’ The passers by seem to consist mainly of media folk (in their skinny jeans, asymmetrical hair and converse trainers), gay men (in even skinnier jeans and gossiping animatedly) and confused models (clutching portfolios and studying the A to Z).

Sophie Stewart.

This combination of flamboyant residents and daytime dwellers encourages new and exciting ventures to open up on a daily basis. ‘If are a restaurant junkie like me, you’re home and dry in Soho.’ Established locals mingle merrily with waves of eclectic new ventures. ‘The current trend is for cool restaurantettes where you can’t book’, sighs Sophie. ‘The trick is to rock up at odd times of day.’ Polpo (and its brethren), 10 Greek St ,Pitt Cue  and La Bodega Negra  all fall under this category, but are all worth the wait.’ While there are some high brow restaurants in Soho – Hix, Nopi and Arbutus to name a few – the bulk of them seem to be of the shabby chic, great food, great prices variety. A favourite? ‘Hmm,.. Bocca di Lupo. For now! Authentic, fabulous Italian food.’ General eating tips? ‘Where possible, ask to eat at the bar. More atmospheric and suits the noise and bustle of Soho.’

Other than the red light district, the area is known for its strong musical roots, home to the media industry and its gay scene. Old Compton Street is infamous for its thriving, buzzing gay culture and the street is packed with crowded bars and a few of Soho’s best and quirkiest shops. As for the music scene, I am curious as to what makes Soho special. ‘I guess the history makes it feel very authentically rooted in musical history. My office kitchen used to be the recording studio for The Who. Making toast feels cool down there.’ Other than the legendary Ronnie Scotts where you can listen to some of the world’s best jazz, Ain’t Nothing But The Blues is a gritty, remarkable little blues bar, and many of the shops on Carnaby St host mini gigs to draw the crowds and entertain.

Ain’t nothing but blues in Soho, London

Once the hub of the Swinging Sixties scene, Carnaby St has commercialised considerably, and is a good shopping destination. ‘With Liberty reigning supreme at the top, Soho can still lay claim on its fashion status’, Sophie muses. ‘Although you’re more likely to head to Soho for vintage shops such as Beyond Retro  and Bang Bang . Or for record shops like Phonicare Records. Much more Soho’s vibe.’

Attempting to wheedle some local secrets out of Sophie I am told ‘Soho is about exploring. There are so many little places, they just need digging out. Non-locals don’t usually know about Berwick Street market, where you can get great street food, veg and flowers. Also, SoHigh (also on Berwick St) has an amazing dressing up section downstairs. Whatever you need.’

It’s not hard to be sold on Soho. It’s sexy, compelling and enchantingly scruffy. Whether for culinary treats, people-watching or a great night out, you can’t beat it. But Sophie has inspired me to go beyond the obvious and brave the alleyway maze to find the real local jewels. This place is never going to get boring.

SoHo, New York

The SoHo neighborhood, known today as a major shopping and dining destination, has undergone several transformations during a century’s worth of growth and activity – the fast-paced, sometimes frantic sort that Manhattan has become famous for.

Initially this area (South of Houston Street – and by the way, that’s pronounced “How-ston,” not “Hew-ston” like the city in Texas), was the city’s home of the textile, dry goods, and manufacturing industries, but over time its cobblestone streets and hulking warehouses went vacant, leaving low-priced openings for New York’s art scene in the 1970s and ‘80s. Then home to galleries, studios, and personal abodes, many of the lofts so iconic to SoHo have now become boutiques, showrooms, shops, and even chain stores like Old Navy, H&M, Topshop, and J. Crew.

Elizabeth Valleau

Fortunately, not all of these spacious spots have been gobbled up by retail and food businesses: Elizabeth Valleau – proprietress of fancy condiment enterprise Empire Mayonnaise, a creative director at R/GA, and menswear writer for Esquire and other publications – has lived in the heart of SoHo for the past three years with her husband Benjamin Palmer, CEO of Barbarian Group. “I also lived here fresh out of college before moving to Brooklyn for a few years. I like being back!” she says. I sought out Elizabeth’s insider insights to find out what this area so heavily trafficked, sought after by shoppers and realtors both, is really like.

“It’s quite a convenient location,” says Elizabeth. “We work and play downtown primarily, and SoHo is an active, youthful area right in the middle of everything. It’s a picturesque walk to the West and East Villages, Chelsea, and the Lower East Side – not to mention a great bike ride away from Williamsburg,” she adds.

When I ask about navigating the crowds of tourists and punters, of course she knows exactly what I mean: “We’re right in the thick of it. On weekends it can be oppressive, and you just have to make a mad dash to get off Broadway.” But she recommends visiting the neighbourhood at night during the week, when “the streets can be spookily empty and it’s actually very nice,” she explains.

Preferring the smaller-scale shops that her hood has to offer, Elizabeth has a few favorite pieces she’s found nearby at spots she’s willing to share. “My vintage Schiaparelli wedding dress came from What Goes Around Comes Around” she divulges.

“I’ve also found an iron anchor necklace from Melet Mercantile, custom riding boots for my longer-than-average legs from E. Vogel Custom Boots & Shoes and unbelievably luxurious unmentionables from Jean Yu.”

For denim, she loves Blue in Green, and found a beloved vintage ‘New Look’ Dior party dress at Amarcord.

And for those wishing to explore SoHo on two wheels instead of two feet, Bicycle Habitat – where Elizabeth purchased her “beautiful Princess Pashley bike” – rents bikes for $50 per day.

Though many of the nightlife spots in SoHo can tend toward the “see and be seen” scene, with heightened self-awareness and prices to match, Elizabeth has had plenty of time to uncover the hidden gems for locals like herself. “Ñ

This is a guest post by Sophie Stewart (Soho) and Meredith Modzelewski (SoHo)